Under the bridge, our heritage: How Quiapo Ilalim vendors keep Filipino craft alive

Beneath the historic Quezon Bridge in Quiapo, where the rush of traffic and footsteps echo endlessly, is a quieter reality. It is shaped by heat, debt, and a fading crowd. There, the handicraft vendors of Quiapo Ilalim continue to sell their art, not just to earn a living, but to keep a piece of Filipino culture alive, even as they slip further into the margins.

A vendor quietly waits for customers at her handicraft stall in Quiapo Ilalim, Manila, where business has slowed down since their relocation in early 2025. Despite the challenges, artisans continue to display handmade products that reflect Filipino culture and tradition. Photo Courtesy of Prences Jhewen Albis.

These vendors, some of whom have been crafting and selling since the 1970s, now face a harsh shift. Relocated from their original space under the bridge due to structural repairs, they struggle with lower foot traffic, rising costs, and the absence of meaningful government aid. Still, their hands keep working and their hopes, however fragile, persist.

For Yolly Soneja, selling handicrafts is more than just a livelihood; it is a life she has known for decades. When she first came to Manila, this was the only work she knew, and over time, it became her home and guide — rooted in years of practice and love for the craft. 

“Ito kasi ang kinagisnan naming trabaho eh. Noong pumunta ako dito sa Maynila, ito ang pinasukan ko hanggang sa ako na ang may-ari. Napamahal na ako eh, ito na ang gabay ko eh ,” she said, describing how her journey began. 

Ryan Arcega, another long-time vendor, sees his work as a bridge to Filipino tradition. During Holy Week, for instance, he once crafted a “bulyos” used in penitential practices. 

“Minsan nagamit ko ang talento ko na gumawa ng gano’n para lang mapagpatuloy ang isang kultura,” he added.

What may seem like simple trinkets are, in fact, tangible markers of intangible heritage. According to cultural mapper Rainier Carajay, handicrafts are not just products but expressions of lived experience, skill, and identity. 

“Ang mga handicraft ay hindi lamang produkto. Maiuugat natin ito sa kasanayan, danas  a at pamumuhay ng mga Pilipino,” she emphasized.

Discussions about the vendors’ relocation began as early as October 2024, when rehabilitation plans for the Quezon Bridge were announced. By January 2025, the vendors were moved to temporary stalls along the roadside. Since then, their struggles have only intensified. 

Yolly said their original spot was far more visible to potential customers. 

“Mas maganda doon kasi kita talaga ‘yung pwesto,” she explained. 

Now, sales have slowed significantly, and the days feel longer with fewer buyers stopping by.

Ryan added that many regular customers are no longer sure where to find them.

“Malaki ang pagbabago kasi hindi na nila gamay,” he said. 

“Dati gamay nila pag-oras na ng pagdating nila, darating sila roon. Siyempre iisipin, nagdadalawang isip pa ‘yong buyer mo kung ‘nandito ba siya?’ o ‘nasaan sila?’”

Although the local governments of Barangays 306 and 384 helped facilitate the relocation, several attempts to request an interview with their officials have gone unanswered as of writing.

For many vendors, adapting to digital platforms remains a significant challenge. While selling online could expand their reach, the requirements of e-commerce sites are often too demanding for small business owners like them. Ryan shared they simply cannot meet all the documentation and financial prerequisites needed to join platforms like Shopee or Lazada.

Their businesses, he added, were built not on capital but on courage and borrowed money. In many cases, vendors begin with loans or credit from suppliers, hoping that sales will eventually catch up. For most of them, it is a day-to-day cycle of making ends meet through grit, resourcefulness, and constant negotiation.

In the face of these challenges, support from government agencies becomes even more crucial.

As of this writing, the Department of Trade and Industry – Negosyo Center Manila has yet to respond to multiple requests for an interview regarding planned interventions for Quiapo Ilalim handicraft vendors. The lack of communication leaves a question on how the trade department plans to support businesses in Quiapo Ilalim.

Despite the lack of direct input from the agency, available records from the trade department show that Negosyo Centers aim to assist micro, small, and medium enterprises (MSMEs) through services like product development and skills training.

Existing programs including the One Town, One Product (OTOP) Next Gen can be a solution to enhancing the quality and marketability of Quiapo Ilalim’s handicrafts, but with no clear framework with its implementation, safeguards are yet to be heard by those who are affected by the slow decline of the business.

When asked what kind of support she hopes to receive, Yolly emphasized the need for affordable financing. She explained that many vendors rely on informal lenders with high interest rates, making it difficult to sustain their businesses. What they need, she said, is access to capital with lower interest, something that government programs could ideally provide.

She also expressed a desire for ownership. Their current stalls are only rented, and she dreams of someday having a space they can truly call their own. 

“Gusto sana namin maging sarili,” she said, referring to the land and stalls they currently occupy under government provision.

For Ryan, the issue goes beyond individual needs. He believes that real change will only happen if there is a working system supporting even the smallest players in the economy. 

“Tumulong sana sa pinakamaliit. Magsimula sa baba,” he said.

For Carajay, the significance of Quiapo Ilalim’s handicrafts extends far beyond the physical products. 

“Tandaan natin na hindi lamang tangible heritage o ‘yong mga nakikita nating yaring produkto ang tinitingnan at pinapahalagahan dito,” she said. 

“Isang mahalagang bahagi rin sa pagdalumat natin ang kahalagahan ng mga handicraft vendors sa Quiapo, ‘yong intangible process na pinagdadaanan ng produkto na ito bago mabuo.”

She stressed that more academic and policy attention must be given to communities like this. Quiapo, being a cultural crossroads, holds layers of meaning that go beyond commerce. 

“Ang bawat materyal at hakbang sa pagbuo nito ay maikokonsidera din bilang isang pamanang pangkalinangan,” she added. 

“Narito rin ang aspeto ng ekonomiya, kultura at identidad na madalas ay hindi nabibigyan ng sapat na pansin sa mga pag-aaral at programang pangkaunlaran.”

The vendors of Quiapo Ilalim do not ask for pity. They ask for capital, visibility, fair policy, and cultural recognition. For decades, they have quietly built a legacy beneath the bridge. One thread, one bead, one story at a time.

In an era where modernity seems to overtake tradition, culture still should have a place in the nation’s consciousness. As Ryan laments, there must also be greater appreciation for the people behind each handmade product. These artisans, he said, deserve more than just fleeting attention. 

“Mahalin mo rin ang mga gumagawa nito,” he said. 

“Ito ang kultura ng Pilipino. Pamana sa atin ito.”